Why do we choose the fibers we use?
Cotton has been grown, spun, and worn by human civilizations for over 7,000 years. It is one of the most studied, tested, and trusted fibers in existence. Soft, breathable, absorbent, and naturally resilient, it forms the backbone of some of the most durable textiles ever made. There is a reason it has never gone away.
But not all cotton is created equal, and the conventional cotton industry has a serious problem. Traditional cotton agriculture is one of the most chemically intensive farming systems in the world. It relies heavily on oil-based fertilizers and pesticides, demands enormous quantities of water, and depends on a global supply chain that burns fossil fuels at every stage of processing, manufacturing, and shipping. The low price tags on conventional cotton garments do not reflect the true cost of what it takes to grow and produce them.
That's why we source our denim exclusively from Tuscarora Mills, using certified organic American-grown cotton. Organic and conventional cotton are vastly different, starting at the soil level. Organic cotton is grown without synthetic pesticides or fertilizers, which means the land it comes from stays healthier, holds water more effectively, and supports its surrounding ecosystem. Longer staple cotton fibers, the kind found in high-quality, organic, American-grown varieties, produce a stronger, smoother, more durable yarn than the short staple fibers used in most mass-market denim. That translates directly into a fabric that holds its structure wash after wash, softens naturally over time, and develops that deep, rich fade that only comes from true quality cloth.
We choose cotton that is good for the soil, the people who grow it, and the people who wear it.
Cotton:
Hemp:
Hemp is arguably the oldest cultivated plant fiber in human history. Evidence of hemp rope has been found in Europe dating back 27,000 years, and hemp cloth in ancient Mesopotamia as far back as 8,000 BC. For most of recorded human history, it was the most widely used fiber in the world. The fact that it fell out of mainstream use in the 20th century had nothing to do with its quality as a fiber and everything to do with politics.
The science behind hemp is hard to argue with. It grows up to 16 feet tall, requires minimal pesticides or fertilizers, consumes relatively little water, and actually improves the soil it grows in through a process called phytoremediation, pulling toxins from the ground as it grows. It produces a bast fiber that is naturally hypoallergenic, resistant to mold and mildew, and roughly six times stronger than cotton by weight. Unlike most fibers that weaken and thin out over time, hemp behaves differently at a structural level. Hemp is a bast fiber, meaning it comes from the long fibrous strands running through the stalk of the plant rather than a seed pod like cotton. Those strands are made up of individual cells that are naturally long, dense, and tightly bound. In deadstock hemp fabric, those fibers are still relatively stiff and upright. As the fabric is worn and washed repeatedly, the fibers don't break down the way shorter staple fibers do. Instead, they flex, settle, and begin to interlock more closely with the fibers around them. The fabric becomes more unified over time rather than less. That's why a hemp garment that has been worn for years feels broken in rather than worn out. The hand gets softer, the drape improves, and the structural integrity of the cloth actually increases. It is one of the few fibers in existence where years of heavy wear works in its favor.
The hemp fibers in our fabrics are currently sourced from farms in France and Italy, where industrial hemp agriculture has a long and well-established history. Domestic hemp farming is now legal in the United States and expanding quickly. We are watching that closely, and sourcing fabric with American-grown hemp fiber is something we are actively working toward as that supply chain develops.